首饰盒里这对角钉,是镶嵌服务里出货最多的一类:两颗椭圆阳绿蛋面,种水接近、大小成对,白金四爪,外圈碎钻。深色绒面把绿和钻火都衬出来。
This pair is the workhorse of our inlay bench: two oval yang-green cabochons, matched in size and water, four white-gold prongs, a diamond halo. Dark velvet is only there to show the green and the fire.
一、成对比单颗难
1. A pair is harder than one stone
耳钉最怕「一只浓、一只淡」。选料时要在同一光源下并排看,色口差超过半级就不能做对。厚度也要对,否则戴上会一高一低。四爪落在椭圆长短轴的四分点,正面几乎看不见。
The fear is one ear darker than the other. Stones are compared side by side under one lamp; more than half a grade of colour and they are not a pair. Thickness must match or one stud sits higher. Prongs land on the quarter-points of the oval.
二、围钻与耳堵
2. Halo and the butterfly back
围钻钻径要统一,否则圈会「缺牙」。耳钉总重控制在舒适范围,翠厚就减钻圈宽度。耳堵用白金螺丝或硅胶双保险,防止回头掉石。不建议超声波,微镶遇振容易松。
Halo diamonds share one diameter or the circle looks gappy. If the jadeite is thick, we narrow the halo to keep weight down. Backs are white-gold screws or a silicone lock. Skip the ultrasonic—pavé loosens.
有一对相近蛋面,或只有一颗要配另一只,都可来问。梧越珠宝从工厂料里找同色口,找不到就建议改吊坠,不强做「假一对」。
Bring a near pair, or one stone looking for its match. Wuyue Jewelry searches factory stock for the same colour mouth; if none, we suggest a pendant rather than a false pair.