这枚戒内圈可见 G18K 印记。两颗椭圆蛋面:一颗浓阳绿,一颗均匀紫罗兰,都是玻璃光泽的天然翡翠 A 货。构图是法式 Toi et Moi(你和我)——两石在指面交错,不是生硬并排。白金碎钻从绿石肩部铺向戒臂。
The shank is hallmarked G18K. Two oval cabochons—one saturated yang green, one even lavender—both Type-A jadeite with a glassy polish. The layout is toi et moi: the stones bypass each other rather than sitting in a stiff row. White-gold pavé runs from the green shoulder down the shank.
一、为什么绿紫要错位
1. Why green and lavender must bypass
春带彩如果两石一样高,绿会把紫压成灰。错位让绿略高、紫略低,侧面看仍是一条弧。两石间距要能过牙线,又不能开到「两枚戒」。爪要细、要对称,紫石边的爪尤其不能发黄,故用白金。
If both stones sit at the same height, green turns lavender grey. The green sits slightly higher. The gap must take a thread of silk but not read as two rings. Prongs are fine and even; those on the lavender stay white gold so they never yellow the purple.
二、钻量与佩戴
2. Diamond load and wear
钻只铺一侧戒臂,另一侧留白金光面,戴进手套才不刮。绿石旁用梨形或马眼钻作「肩花」,面积仍小于蛋面。日常建议不要和硬金对戒叠戴,以免磨到翠的腰线。
Pavé occupies one side of the shank; the other stays a smooth gold rail so gloves do not catch. Pear or marquise diamonds at the green shoulder stay smaller than the cabochon. Do not stack it against a hard gold band that would grind the girdle.
一对春带彩蛋面最适合做 Toi et Moi。梧越珠宝可按两石直径差重排高低,并出 18K 白金或铂金两种报价。
A matched green-and-lavender pair is the natural toi-et-moi. Wuyue Jewelry restacks height to the diameter gap, quoted in 18K white gold or platinum.